Chelsea Kayak Club

We haven’t been able to paddle to Beachy Head for the last 2 years as the weather and tides never worked for us. But this year we managed to get to see the lighthouse twice in 6 weeks!

Although the wind was a bit gusty while we were getting ready at Eastbourne, it was to get lighter throughout the day. Whereas on the previous trip we were dodging rain clouds, this time getting sunburnt was more of a concern.

Paddling passed the lighthouse we were able to surf some small waves, pushing us on towards Birling Gap. Birling Gap had suffered a landslide of part of the cliff around the steps leading to the beach. We had hoped that we would have the beach to ourselves, but the steps had re-opened 2 days previously letting the general public back onto the beach. Still, it was quieter than usual. For lunch we kept well away from the cliff, just in case there was another rockfall.

On the way we had seen one really big seal, but on the way back we saw a large group of 8. After paddling back to the launch point we continued onto have a look at the golden domes on the pier, before landing. An enjoyable day on the sea!

When I signed up to join an expedition cruise to Antarctica I ticked the box labelled ‘kayaking’. I had previously done what I thought was kayaking on the Loire in France and a single trip to look at Sea Otters in Monterey Bay. It turned out that this wasn’t nearly enough experience to qualify. I had about 9 months to pick up the skills. This was a little daunting for an older man based in central London – somewhat out of my comfort zone.

I started my education in the unlikely setting of a swimming pool – under the auspices of the Battersea Canoe Club in Clapham Leisure Centre. A good choice. The instructors were patient and calm and after six sessions I felt confident getting in and out of the boats and what to do if I turned over. But I realised there was quite a difference between the small water polo kayaks and full size sea kayaks – so I joined the Chelsea Kayak Club. My previous experience allowed me to gain my Discover award reasonably quickly (thank you David P.) and then consolidate by taking part in a few evening paddles up and down the river.

Kayaking in Antarctica is a step up again. The boats were double kayaks with a rudder operated by the rear paddler. They felt a little more stable than the single kayaks and it was good to have a ‘buddy’ in the boat with you. The kit was another matter. To stay warm you needed two thermal layers and a down jacket. You then had to worm your way into a dry suit (tight rubber gaskets around arms and neck), and fit a life jacket over the top. One felt like a Michelin Man. A neck gaiter and beanie hat would keep you protected from winds. Gloves I found were less necessary, the pogies being surprisingly effective at keeping your hands warm.

We were put through our paces at a sub – Antarctic island called Enderby Island. A gentle paddle around cliffs of basalt pillars with the odd cave. No ice, just a few fur seals for company.

We proceeded down to Antarctica proper with paddles at Cape Hallet and McMurdo Sound. Here we encountered ice in its many forms. Grease ice makes the sea soupy – like paddling through treacle. Brash ice – small, floating ice fragments that need careful navigation; bumping into a small block of ice can stop your kayak in its tracks. Nilas ice, where the ice has formed into thin sheets on the surface. Your kayak will just force them to slide over one another. And then Pancake ice, circular dishes of ice that you can hopefully force apart and find a way through.

The paddle at Cape Hallet was extraordinary. Bright sunshine and the grease ice damped down any choppiness, just leaving a long wavelength swell where you would drop into an icy world in the troughs. The brash ice was all sparkly and the snow covered mountain scenery breathtaking.

In the more southerly McMurdo the temperature was lower and the ice was much more intimidating. Large flat ice floes with narrow leads in between, all underneath the smoking volcano Mount Erebus. We did have a close encounter with some stately Emperor Penguins on the flat floes.

Our route then took us along the Ross Ice Shelf and beyond, to a part of the continent known as the peninsula. This is an offshoot of the main land mass and largely above the Antarctic Circle.

On a foggy morning we paddled around a Ukrainian base on the Argentine Islands. Visits to bases are no longer allowed (post covid) and so we had to forego the home distilled vodka that the Ukrainians normally serve to visitors. Rather oddly our only interaction with the scientists was one of them appearing from a sauna and promptly mooning at our flotilla! At one point we were asked to raft up as an inquisitive, three metre Leopard Seal buzzed around our kayaks. Just after being picked up in our Zodiac we witnessed its true nature in full tooth and claw – the seal caught a young Gentoo Penguin and hurled it back and forth in order to detach the feathers and skin from the body. Bloody and chilling, but fascinating.

Our final paddle was in the beautiful surroundings of Founier Bay on Anvers Island. The weather was perfect and the bay turned out to be full of Humpback Whales. They were actively feeding, so constantly sounding and returning to the surface with noisy blows – right in front of our kayaks. An afternoon that none of us wanted to stop.

There are many wonderful things to experience in Antarctica – the scenery, the wildlife, the history (we visited both Shackleton’s Nimrod hut and Scott’s Terra Nova hut, still with their very British stores of Huntley and Palmer’s biscuits and Colman’s mustard!) – but the kayaking gave you a whole other perspective, sneaking up on sleeping seals, being visited by interested penguins and experiencing the full majesty of Cetaceans.

A wonderful and memorable trip for which I owe many thanks to the Chelsea Kayak Club. I would wholeheartedly encourage anybody thinking of going to Antarctica to tick that kayaking box!

A lovely day on the sea at Margate.  We parked up at Hodges Gap promenade car park at Palm Beach Bay.  It’s not the closest to the beach – that one is adjacent but closed by a barrier to vehicles and access is only for jet-skiers with a code.  So it adds a little to the walk, but is manageable.  There are no toilets here – the nearest we found were at the smart Bowling Club a short walk away – visitors welcome.

The launch at about 1215 from the beach was straightforward, with just a slight swell to contend with, and keeping clear of the reef to the left.  We headed out to catch the flow, keeping a careful eye on a pack of noisy jet-skiers who fortunately moved off pretty quickly and left us in peace. 

We headed west with the flow in good conditions, with a light north-easterly breeze and a sunny sky.  We paddled past Walpole Bay, Margate Cove, past the Turner Contemporary, searching as we did for the Antony Gormley statue, but he was submerged (the solitary figure becomes visible three hours before low tide).  Then past Margate Main Sands, Westbrook Bay, St Mildred’s Bay, Westgate Bay, towards the impressive Reculver Tower and Roman Fort.  A deliberate and – may I say – a well-executed roll by David along the way added to the fun. 

We stopped for a packed lunch at Epple Bay, the turning tide revealing an area of sand to land on, which was much preferable to a slipway a bit further along.  No facilities in the area though.

Then back the way we came, a lovely smooth run in the sun and the sparkling sea, keeping out from land to catch the flow which picked up as we headed east.  It felt we covered the ground faster than on the way out – and we took the time to do some skills practice with Mary coming to the aid of a suddenly poorly David, who was towed by Liza for a few metres before happily recovering Liza demonstrated an impressive self-rescue.

We arrived back at Palm Bay Beach at about 1630 with the tide coming in, shortening a little the walk back to the cars.  It was a great day out, and it felt good to brush off the winter cobwebs. Many thanks to Liza for organising it so well.

We had one of the shortest paddles in our recent history, but what a trip! Originally we had planned to paddle from Bournemouth Beach around Hengistbury Head. the weather did not look promising on the weather apps and as soon as we were on the beach it was clear that the trip was not going to be feasible. Instead we set our goal to be somewhat less that half the planned distance, staying in Bournemouth Bay.

Launching through surf, we were soon out in the wind and waves. While the waves were moderately large, they were mostly not breaking, meaning that we could enjoy riding up and down them as we followed the bay along.

After about 2km it became clear that the wind was having too much of an effect on the group and we decided to land near to Bournemouth Pier – landing through surf. Breaking out the group shelter to keep the wind from getting us too cold, we decided that the best plan would be to return back to the start point.

Once more we launched through surf, back into the wind and waves, paddling with our head down until we reach our start point. Then another surf landing, making 4 surfing launches and landing all within 4 km!

Although it was a very short trip, it had everything: wind, waves, surf and some lessons for future trips. Amazingly everyone loved the trip, as it had everything condensed into a short distance, making it a very intense trip!

Nestled on the rugged North Devon coast, Ilfracombe is a charming seaside town known for its Victorian architecture, working harbour, and dramatic cliffs. While many visitors come for fish and chips on the quay or to admire Damien Hirst’s Verity statue, seeing this stretch of coastline from the sea is a must.

Sea kayaking around Ilfracombe offers a unique perspective on the area’s natural beauty. Paddling just beyond the harbour walls, you’re quickly immersed in a landscape of hidden coves, sea caves, towering headlands, and abundant wildlife.

Ilfracombe’s harbour provides a sheltered launch point, making it slightly easier to get on the water even when conditions are a little lively outside the bay. Sunday’s launch certainly challenged all paddlers, but everyone managed to successfully get out and hold position in a sizeable swell. Outside of the harbour you soon enjoy the dramatic cliffs and a chance to spot seabirds nesting on the rock ledges. Hele Bay itself is a peaceful shingle cove, perfect for a rest stop. During higher tides there is also the opportunity to explore narrow inlets, and sea caves.

One of the joys of kayaking here is the wildlife, seals are seen bobbing curiously near your kayak, porpoises playing the surf and guillemots, razorbills, and fulmars are common.